Q & A
A customer asks: I want to know the name of a printer that can print with 4 colors, and is there a printer that can use more than 4 colors?
Most companies recently started releasing multi-color printers.
Anycubic launched the Kobra 3 and Kobra 3 Max, and both come with ACE, which allows the printer to print up to 4 colors. You can also add another unit to reach up to 8 colors.
Creality released the HI with the same features, and they also offer the K1 Max.
If you are looking for a more premium printer, the Bambu Lab X1C is AI-powered, well known, and supports up to 16 colors.
There is also Prusa, which does not rely on swapping spools. Instead, each spool has its own hotend, which saves a lot of time and material, but of course comes at a higher cost.
The market has many options. Depending on your needs and your budget, you will find a printer that suits you.
Laptop / PC Requirements to Run a 3D Printer
The software required for 3D printing is simple and not heavy on your computer.
Basically, you only need one main program: a Slicer, which converts your design from STL into G-code.
If your device has 4 GB of RAM and a 7th-generation processor, it will work just fine.
That said, it’s always better to have a more modern machine, because the software we use is constantly getting updates.
This is in the case where you are only printing ready-made files and not designing anything yourself.
But if you plan to design your own parts using programs like SolidWorks or Fusion, then you will definitely need a more powerful laptop with a stronger processor and better specs, because these design programs are much heavier.
If you have any other questions, let us know and we’ll help you. And if you’re interested in designing your own parts, tell us—we’d be happy to assist you.
How to Print While Keeping the Place Smelling Good
In reality, most printers can work in almost any place. What really matters is how you control air and odors.
PLA has a light, non-annoying smell, but simple ventilation or opening a window keeps the air cleaner.
ABS is different. It produces a strong odor at high temperatures. The solution is to use an enclosed printer with a carbon or HEPA filter, or a ventilation tube that pushes the air outside.
Before starting a print, wipe the bed with scented wipes or a lightly perfumed tissue. With time and the bed’s heat, the scent will spread around the printer and the room will smell pleasant
Do Not Always Print in the Same Spot to Protect the Bed
A small tip that makes a big difference in bed lifespan and print quality: do not always print in the same spot. Repeated printing on one area wears the surface faster and causes adhesion issues. The solution is simple—change the print position each time (left, right, front, back) so the load is distributed and the bed lasts longer. Just like you change where you sit to stay comfortable, the bed also needs “position changes” to stay in good shape. Have you ever noticed prints not sticking well in the exact spot you always use?
Differential Cooling Settings
This feature gives you smarter control over the fan during printing. Instead of running at the same power all the time, you can set different cooling levels based on height or specific details. First layers need less cooling to stick well to the bed. Thin parts and fine details benefit from higher cooling to prevent melting and keep accuracy. With materials, PLA prefers strong cooling, while ABS and ASA need very limited cooling to avoid warping.
Using Sequential Printing
Instead of printing all parts layer by layer together, this mode finishes one part completely before moving to the next. The main benefit is that if a print fails, you lose only one part instead of the whole job. It’s also great for small parts because the printer doesn’t travel around every piece on each layer, resulting in cleaner and often faster prints. Just make sure there’s enough space between parts so the head doesn’t hit a finished piece while moving. If your spool runs out mid-print, you’ll lose only one part. Sometimes it even saves time because there is no unnecessary traveling.
Using Custom Profiles
Most slicers like Cura or Bambu Studio come with default settings that work, but they’re not always ideal for your needs. That’s where Custom Profiles come in. Each material needs its own profile—PLA, ABS, TPU—because each has different temperature, cooling, and speed requirements. Each printer also needs its own profile; even with the same material, an open printer behaves differently from an enclosed one. For special projects, sometimes you need high quality at low speed, and other times you need speed at the expense of detail.
You can download ready-made profiles that others tested for best performance, create your own profile tailored to your setup, or contact us and we’ll send you a printer profile for free if we have one.
Venting Settings
Venting isn’t just about comfort or reducing odor—it directly affects print quality and bed adhesion.
PLA prefers a moderate environment, and good ventilation helps cool the part and prevent warping.
ABS and ASA are the opposite: too much ventilation can cause cracks or warping. They perform best in a warm, enclosed environment with minimal airflow. That’s why printing ABS or ASA requires an enclosed printer.
Enclosed printers often include built-in ventilation with carbon filters to reduce odors and maintain temperature stability. Some slicers also let you control Venting Speed, meaning fan power or how much air is pulled from the chamber.
Flow Rate
Flow Rate is the percentage of filament extruded compared to the default value (100%). It determines whether the printer outputs too much or too little material. Above 100% means over-extrusion—raised lines, messy corners, and overly fused layers. Below 100% means under-extrusion—gaps between lines, weak layer bonding, or what’s known as “missed layers” and fragile surfaces.
To calibrate it, print a Flow Calibration test. It will provide several values—choose the one that fits best and apply it in your slicer.
Improving First Layer Settings
The first layer is the foundation of every print. If it sticks well, the whole print is likely to succeed. If it fails, you start over.
Increase first layer height slightly (0.2–0.28mm). Reduce speed (20–30mm/s). Raise nozzle temperature a bit and heat the bed properly (PLA 60°C, ABS 100°C). Clean the bed well. Reduce or disable cooling on the first layer. Use Brim or Raft for small parts or difficult materials.
Improving Cooling Settings
Fan cooling directly affects print quality.
First layers need little or no cooling. PLA prefers strong cooling (100%). ABS/ASA need very low cooling to avoid warping and cracks. For fine details and bridges, increase cooling so material solidifies quickly.
Save More Than 50% Resin
Instead of printing models solid, hollow them with a chosen wall thickness. This saves material and cost, reduces weight, and minimizes failures on large parts. Add drain holes so excess resin can escape, and keep wall thickness around 2–3mm to maintain strength.
The Biggest Myth About 3D Printing
Many videos claim huge monthly profits. You can build a business with 3D printing because it enables countless products, some only possible by printing. But do you have a product the market needs? Can you sell it? Does it solve a real problem at a fair cost?
Test first by printing externally. If demand grows, then invest in printers and scale. Calculate part cost and marketing, test, and we can help you choose the right printer.
Fixing Warping
Level the bed properly. Set the Z offset correctly. Use adhesive if needed. Match bed temperature to material. Enclose the printer for ABS. Adjust cooling, especially on the first layer. Use Brim for large bases and Raft for tall thin parts.
How many kilos have you lost to warping?